When she’s not analyzing exotic candy, Fiona spends a good bit of time in the Academy kitchen, where the amazing Mona Talbott allows kids on Saturday mornings. During the week, while not technically “in” the kitchen, Fiona tends to do quite a bit of her Italian homework sitting at the Academy bar (where Gabriele, the bartender, makes a mean sprumante) and where, more often than not, she can be found shelling peas or fava beans.

When in Rome, you do all sorts of things you might not do at home — like, say, taking a break from shelling fava beans to go see a 1,700-year-old sarcophagus.

We went to an old chocolate factory yesterday to celebrate Fiona’s 12th birthday, which is actually today. The delectations were amazing, and the decor equally so: we were particularly taken with the antique candy molds, hung everywhere, and encompassing an entire social history of their own. (The pistol mold was our favorite, though sadly, no chocolate pistols were for sale during our visit.)

Fiona’s birthday falls on Easter Sunday this year, which may have something to do with the miracle that happened while we were strolling through the city yesterday.

While walking through the piazza by the Vatican, we squirmed our way through what could only be the entourage of the man himself: and just like that, there he was, surrounded by bodyguards and photographers and pilgrims and well-wishers, all hoping for a chance to be blessed by the Pope. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a photographer plucks Fiona from the crowd and asks her to come forward!

We had a cocktail party here on Friday night, where Fiona charmed the crowd by refilling drinks and made a new friend — Massimo Vignelli. All a warm-up, as it turns out, for yesterday when we went to a spectacular winery for lunch, and we sat beside Martha Stewart. (And Massimo too.)

Fiona did her part last night by taking it upon herself to fill the blackboard in the lecture hall where we were speaking. She’s now offering her services for conferences and lectures and her fee, she tells me, is quite reasonable — although her brother has advised her to charge what our lawyers would charge. Wonder where he got that idea?

It is so amazing to think that in less than a month we will be on such an adventure. Giraffes in South Africa! Gelato in Italy! How exciting!